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	<id>https://wiki.retrotechcollection.com/index.php?action=history&amp;feed=atom&amp;title=Macintosh_LC_630_Capacitor_Replacement_Guide</id>
	<title>Macintosh LC 630 Capacitor Replacement Guide - Revision history</title>
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	<updated>2026-06-24T13:53:20Z</updated>
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		<id>https://wiki.retrotechcollection.com/index.php?title=Macintosh_LC_630_Capacitor_Replacement_Guide&amp;diff=9120&amp;oldid=prev</id>
		<title>Josh: Created shared capacitor replacement guide for LC 630 series</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.retrotechcollection.com/index.php?title=Macintosh_LC_630_Capacitor_Replacement_Guide&amp;diff=9120&amp;oldid=prev"/>
		<updated>2026-02-10T10:21:41Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Created shared capacitor replacement guide for LC 630 series&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;New page&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div&gt;Replacing electrolytic capacitors (recapping) in your &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Macintosh LC 630&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; and related models is essential for long-term reliability. This guide covers the &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;LC 630&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;, &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;[[Macintosh Quadra 630|Quadra 630]]&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;, &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;[[Macintosh Performa 630|Performa 630 series]]&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; (630, 631, 635, 636, 637, 638), and &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;[[Macintosh LC 630 DOS Compatible|LC 630 DOS Compatible]]&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;. All variants share the same logic board (820-0524) with identical capacitor specifications.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Overview ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The LC 630 series uses surface-mount electrolytic capacitors that are prone to leakage after 25+ years. Unlike compact Macs, the LC 630 has no analog board—the power supply is a separate sealed unit. This guide focuses on the logic board capacitors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The LC 630 logic board contains &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;9 SMD electrolytic capacitors&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;:&lt;br /&gt;
* 3× 100µF 6.3V&lt;br /&gt;
* 6× 47µF 16V&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Capacitor Inspection ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before recapping, inspect the board for signs of failure:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Bulging Tops&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; – Capacitors with domed or swollen tops have failed internally. Replace immediately.&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Leaking Electrolyte&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; – Brown or amber residue around capacitor bases indicates leakage. The electrolyte is corrosive and damages traces.&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Corrosion or PCB Staining&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; – Discoloration of the PCB surface near capacitors suggests electrolyte has spread. Clean thoroughly before recapping.&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Crystalline Deposits&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; – White or gray crystals indicate advanced corrosion requiring trace repair.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Macintosh LC 630 Capacitor List ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Logic Board Capacitors ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;templatestyles src=&amp;quot;Template:StyledTable/styles.css&amp;quot; /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable styled-table&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;width:100%; text-align:center;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+ &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Logic Board Capacitor Specifications (820-0524)&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Reference !! Capacitance !! Voltage !! Quantity !! Location/Notes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| C1, C2, C3 || 100µF || 6.3V || 3 || Power filtering section&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| C4, C5, C6, C7, C8, C9 || 47µF || 16V || 6 || Various filtering locations&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Total: 9 capacitors&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Replacement Capacitor Recommendations ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For SMD replacements, use high-quality Japanese capacitors:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;width:80%; text-align:center;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+ &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Recommended Replacement Capacitors&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Original Value !! Replacement Rating !! Recommended Brands&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 100µF 6.3V || 100µF 10V or 16V || Nichicon, Panasonic, Rubycon&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 47µF 16V || 47µF 25V || Nichicon, Panasonic, Rubycon&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Notes:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Use higher voltage rating replacements where available (improves reliability)&lt;br /&gt;
* Match or exceed original capacitance&lt;br /&gt;
* SMD packages preferred for proper fit&lt;br /&gt;
* Through-hole can work with careful positioning&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Power Supply Capacitors ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The LC 630 power supply is a separate sealed unit. If exhibiting issues:&lt;br /&gt;
* Power supply recapping requires opening the PSU enclosure&lt;br /&gt;
* Contains high-voltage capacitors—discharge before servicing&lt;br /&gt;
* Consider professional service or replacement unit&lt;br /&gt;
* Symptoms of PSU cap failure: no power, clicking, or unstable voltages&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Power supply capacitor specifications vary by PSU variant and are not covered in this logic board guide.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Capacitor Replacement Procedure ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Preparation ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Disconnect power&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; and all cables from the system&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Open rear panel&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; by releasing the latch&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Slide out motherboard drawer&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; for full access&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Remove logic board&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; if needed for better access&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Photograph the board&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; for reference before starting&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Document polarity&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; of each capacitor before removal&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Tools Required ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Temperature-controlled soldering iron (recommended: 350–380°C)&lt;br /&gt;
* Fine soldering tip (chisel or conical)&lt;br /&gt;
* Desoldering braid or solder wick&lt;br /&gt;
* Fine solder (0.5–0.6mm leaded or lead-free)&lt;br /&gt;
* Isopropyl alcohol (90%+ concentration)&lt;br /&gt;
* ESD-safe brush (soft bristles)&lt;br /&gt;
* Multimeter with continuity function&lt;br /&gt;
* Magnification (loupe or microscope helpful)&lt;br /&gt;
* ESD wrist strap and mat&lt;br /&gt;
* Flux (no-clean or water-soluble)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Removal Process ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Add fresh solder&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; to capacitor leads (helps heat transfer)&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Heat one side&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; while gently pushing capacitor&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Alternate sides&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; until capacitor releases&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Remove residual solder&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; with desoldering braid&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Clean pads&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; with isopropyl alcohol&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Inspect pads&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; for lifted traces or damage&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Alternative method (hot air):&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Use hot air station at 350–400°C&lt;br /&gt;
* Heat both pads simultaneously&lt;br /&gt;
* Lift capacitor with tweezers when solder flows&lt;br /&gt;
* Clean area immediately&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Cleaning Electrolyte Damage ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If electrolyte leakage is present:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Remove all leaked electrolyte&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; with cotton swabs and isopropyl alcohol&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Use white vinegar&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; to neutralize remaining electrolyte (alkaline residue)&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Rinse with isopropyl alcohol&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; to remove vinegar&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Inspect traces&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; under magnification&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Test continuity&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; of traces near affected areas&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Repair damaged traces&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; with wire jumpers if necessary&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Allow board to dry completely&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; before proceeding&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Installation Process ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Verify polarity&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; – Negative stripe on capacitor aligns with board marking&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Apply flux&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; to pads&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Tin one pad&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; with small amount of solder&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Position capacitor&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; and tack one side&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Verify alignment&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; before soldering second pad&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Solder second pad&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; cleanly&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Reheat first pad&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; for good joint if needed&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Inspect joints&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; under magnification&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Clean flux residue&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; with isopropyl alcohol&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Polarity notes:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* SMD electrolytic capacitors have a stripe indicating negative terminal&lt;br /&gt;
* Board silkscreen typically shows positive terminal or negative bar&lt;br /&gt;
* Double-check against original photos&lt;br /&gt;
* Reversed polarity will damage capacitor and board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Post-Installation Checks ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Visual inspection&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; – All joints should be smooth and shiny&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Continuity test&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; – Verify no shorts between adjacent traces&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Capacitance test&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; – Optional: verify each capacitor with ESR meter&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Power-on test&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; – Reconnect power and test system&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Voltage Adjustment After Recap ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After recapping, verify power supply voltages:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;+5V rail:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; 4.85V – 5.15V&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;+12V rail:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; 11.9V – 12.7V&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Measure at logic board power connector with system running. Adjust PSU potentiometer if out of specification.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DOS Compatibility Card ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your system includes a DOS Compatibility Card:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The DOS card is a two-board assembly installed in the CPU socket and PDS slot. It may contain additional capacitors:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Inspect both PCBs of the DOS card&lt;br /&gt;
* Card age is similar to logic board (same failure risk)&lt;br /&gt;
* Card capacitors (if present) may require replacement&lt;br /&gt;
* Exercise caution removing/reinstalling dual-board assembly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Through-Hole Conversion ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If SMD capacitors are unavailable, through-hole capacitors can be used:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Drill small holes&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; in pads (0.8mm)&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Insert through-hole capacitor&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; leads&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Solder from bottom&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; of board&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Trim leads&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; flush&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Verify no shorts&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; with multimeter&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Considerations:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Through-hole caps are taller—verify clearance&lt;br /&gt;
* May interfere with motherboard drawer mechanism&lt;br /&gt;
* Radial leads preferred over axial&lt;br /&gt;
* Same capacitance and voltage requirements apply&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Common Mistakes to Avoid ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Wrong polarity&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; – Will damage capacitor immediately&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Too much heat&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; – Lifts pads and traces&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Cold solder joints&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; – Lead to intermittent failures&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Skipping cleaning&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; – Residual electrolyte continues damage&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Wrong capacitor values&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; – System may not function correctly&lt;br /&gt;
* &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Forgetting to test&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; – Shorts can cause immediate damage on power-up&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Sourcing Capacitors ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Quality capacitor sources:&lt;br /&gt;
* DigiKey, Mouser, Newark (new stock)&lt;br /&gt;
* Console5 (pre-made kits for vintage systems)&lt;br /&gt;
* eBay (verify authentic Japanese brands)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Avoid:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Unknown brand Chinese capacitors&lt;br /&gt;
* Suspiciously cheap &amp;quot;Japanese&amp;quot; capacitors&lt;br /&gt;
* Used or salvaged capacitors&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== When to Seek Professional Help ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Consider professional repair if:&lt;br /&gt;
* You lack SMD soldering experience&lt;br /&gt;
* Significant trace damage is present&lt;br /&gt;
* Board has extensive corrosion&lt;br /&gt;
* Multiple component failures beyond capacitors&lt;br /&gt;
* DOS Compatibility Card requires service&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Related Maintenance Pages ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Macintosh LC 630 Troubleshooting]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Macintosh LC 630 General Maintenance]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Macintosh LC 630]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Macintosh LC 630 DOS Compatible]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Macintosh Quadra 630]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Macintosh Performa 630]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Apple Vintage Computers]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category: Capacitor Replacement Guides]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Josh</name></author>
	</entry>
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