Help:Photographing hardware
| Photographing hardware |
|---|
| How to take useful photos for RTC Wiki articles |
Repair guides, board documentation and component identification all depend on clear photographs. This page covers how to photograph vintage computer and console hardware for the wiki.
Equipment
editA modern smartphone camera is enough for most documentation. These help:
| Equipment | Why it helps |
|---|---|
| Macro lens, or a phone macro attachment | Close-ups of components, solder joints and IC markings |
| Tripod or phone stand | Stops camera shake, especially close up |
| Diffused lighting, such as a desk lamp with a white shade | Avoids harsh shadows and hot spots on shiny PCBs |
| Anti-static mat | A plain, consistent background, and ESD protection |
| Compressed air | Removes dust before you photograph |
Board photography
editWhole boards
edit- Clean the board first with compressed air and IPA to remove dust and flux residue.
- For documentation photos, shoot from directly above, square to the board.
- Fill the frame with the board.
- Light it evenly from both sides so tall components do not cast shadows.
- Include a ruler or coin for scale on unfamiliar boards.
- Photograph both sides of every PCB.
Component close-ups
edit- Focus on the IC markings. They are the most useful way to identify a part.
- Use macro mode to capture part numbers, date codes and manufacturer logos.
- On capacitors, show any bulging, leaking or corrosion, and the polarity marking.
- On solder joints, get close enough to show cracked, cold or dry joints.
Board revision
edit- Photograph the board revision or part number printed on the silkscreen.
- Capture the date codes on the board and on the major ICs.
- Include any serial number stickers.
Photos for repair guides
editBefore and after
edit- Take a before photo showing the fault: bulging capacitors, corrosion, broken traces.
- Take an after photo of the finished repair.
- Use the same angle and lighting for both.
Step by step
edit- Photograph each major step of the procedure.
- Mark the relevant area with an arrow or circle in any image editor.
- Where you are showing a technique, include the tool in the frame (for example, the soldering iron on the joint).
Camera settings
edit| Setting | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Resolution | At least 2000×1500 pixels, so the photo can be cropped |
| Format | JPEG for photographs; PNG for screenshots and diagrams |
| White balance | Match your lighting; auto usually works |
| Flash | Off. Flash causes glare on PCBs; use external lighting instead |
| ISO | As low as possible (100–400) to reduce noise |
Uploading to the wiki
edit- Upload at Special:Upload. Keep each file under about 3 MB; resize large photos before uploading.
- Give the file a descriptive name that says what it shows, including the board revision where there is one, for example
GameCube DOL-CPU-30 logic board top.jpg. - On the file page, say what the photo shows, where it came from (your own photo, or the source URL), who took it, and the licence. See RetroTechCollection:Copyrights.
- Add a category that fits, such as the platform category.
- In articles, use a thumbnail with a caption:
[[File:Name.jpg|thumb|360px|Caption]]for the photo at the top of a guide, and[[File:Name.jpg|center|thumb|600px|Caption]]for a full board photo.
Common mistakes
edit- Blurry photos: use a stand and good lighting.
- Flash glare on the solder mask: use diffused lighting.
- A cluttered background: use a mat or plain surface.
- Too far away: fill the frame with the subject.
- No scale: include a ruler or coin.
- Only one side of the board: always photograph both.