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| | #REDIRECT [[Super Famicom Capacitor Replacement Guide]] |
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| '''Replacing the electrolytic capacitors in a Super Nintendo (SNES) restores power stability, reduces video/audio noise, and prevents long-term board damage from leakage.'''
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| While SNES capacitors rarely fail as spectacularly as in some earlier consoles, most units are now 30+ years old and original SMD electrolytics are at or beyond their design life—especially in humid climates.
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| == Visual Inspection & Failure Signs ==
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| * '''Leaking SMD cans''' – clear or brown residue, especially under or around surface-mount capacitors.
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| * '''Corrosion or green/black pads''' – capacitor electrolyte is conductive and corrosive, often damaging traces.
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| * '''Noisy audio / humming''' – dried-out audio rail capacitors cause background buzz or distortion.
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| * '''Video artifacts''' – unstable or faded video may be caused by failed decoupling or coupling capacitors.
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| * '''Random resets / power loss''' – main power filter caps with high ESR can cause intermittent operation.
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| If '''any''' capacitor shows signs of failure, it is strongly recommended to replace '''all''' electrolytic capacitors on the board.
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| == Super Nintendo Capacitor Lists ==
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| The SNES was produced in several board revisions. Always verify your board model and cross-check silkscreen references before ordering parts.
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| === SNES “1CHIP” & “SNS-CPU-GPM-02” (Typical Surface-Mount) ===
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| {| class="wikitable styled-table" style="width:100%; text-align:center;"
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| |+'''Super Nintendo (SNES) Electrolytic Capacitors – Common SMD Models'''
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| ! Board Ref !! Capacitance !! Voltage !! Purpose / Rail
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| |-
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| | C59 || 1000 µF || 16 V || Main +5 V input filter (power smoothing)
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| |-
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| | C58 || 470 µF || 16 V || Secondary +5 V filter (regulator output)
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| |-
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| | C60 || 220 µF || 10 V || Audio rail filter (prevents hum)
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| |-
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| | C61 || 10 µF || 16 V || Reset circuit (power-on reset timing)
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| |-
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| | C62 || 10 µF || 16 V || Video encoder decoupling
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| |-
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| | C63 || 10 µF || 16 V || Video encoder decoupling
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| |-
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| | C64 || 10 µF || 16 V || Video encoder decoupling
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| |-
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| | C65 || 10 µF || 16 V || Video encoder decoupling
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| |-
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| | C66 || 1 µF || 50 V || Audio output coupling (DC block)
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| |-
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| | C67 || 1 µF || 50 V || Audio output coupling (DC block)
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| |}
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| ''Note: Some revisions use through-hole capacitors for C59/C58. Always check your board.''
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| == Replacement Tips ==
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| * '''Polarity matters!''' – SMD and through-hole electrolytics are polarized; match the negative stripe to the board marking.
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| * '''Clean thoroughly''' – Remove all old electrolyte with isopropyl alcohol and a soft brush before installing new capacitors.
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| * '''Use quality parts''' – Choose reputable brands (Nichicon, Panasonic, Rubycon) rated for 105°C and equal or higher voltage.
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| * '''Consider solid polymer''' – For SMD locations, solid polymer capacitors are a durable, leak-proof upgrade.
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| [[Category: Nintendo]]
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