Editing Help:Photographing hardware

__TOC__
{{CategoryHeaderBox
| title = Photographing hardware
| subtitle = How to take useful photos for RTC Wiki articles
}}

Repair guides, board documentation and component identification all depend on clear photographs. This page covers how to photograph vintage computer and console hardware for the wiki.

== Equipment ==
A modern smartphone camera is enough for most documentation. These help:

{| class="wikitable" style="width:80%;"
|-
! Equipment !! Why it helps
|-
| Macro lens, or a phone macro attachment || Close-ups of components, solder joints and IC markings
|-
| Tripod or phone stand || Stops camera shake, especially close up
|-
| Diffused lighting, such as a desk lamp with a white shade || Avoids harsh shadows and hot spots on shiny PCBs
|-
| Anti-static mat || A plain, consistent background, and ESD protection
|-
| Compressed air || Removes dust before you photograph
|}

== Board photography ==

=== Whole boards ===
* Clean the board first with compressed air and IPA to remove dust and flux residue.
* For documentation photos, shoot from directly above, square to the board.
* Fill the frame with the board.
* Light it evenly from both sides so tall components do not cast shadows.
* Include a ruler or coin for scale on unfamiliar boards.
* Photograph both sides of every PCB.

=== Component close-ups ===
* Focus on the IC markings. They are the most useful way to identify a part.
* Use macro mode to capture part numbers, date codes and manufacturer logos.
* On capacitors, show any bulging, leaking or corrosion, and the polarity marking.
* On solder joints, get close enough to show cracked, cold or dry joints.

=== Board revision ===
* Photograph the board revision or part number printed on the silkscreen.
* Capture the date codes on the board and on the major ICs.
* Include any serial number stickers.

== Photos for repair guides ==

=== Before and after ===
* Take a before photo showing the fault: bulging capacitors, corrosion, broken traces.
* Take an after photo of the finished repair.
* Use the same angle and lighting for both.

=== Step by step ===
* Photograph each major step of the procedure.
* Mark the relevant area with an arrow or circle in any image editor.
* Where you are showing a technique, include the tool in the frame (for example, the soldering iron on the joint).

== Camera settings ==

{| class="wikitable" style="width:70%;"
|-
! Setting !! Recommendation
|-
| Resolution || At least 2000×1500 pixels, so the photo can be cropped
|-
| Format || JPEG for photographs; PNG for screenshots and diagrams
|-
| White balance || Match your lighting; auto usually works
|-
| Flash || Off. Flash causes glare on PCBs; use external lighting instead
|-
| ISO || As low as possible (100–400) to reduce noise
|}

== Uploading to the wiki ==
* Upload at [[Special:Upload]]. Keep each file under about 3 MB; resize large photos before uploading.
* Give the file a descriptive name that says what it shows, including the board revision where there is one, for example <code>GameCube DOL-CPU-30 logic board top.jpg</code>.
* On the file page, say what the photo shows, where it came from (your own photo, or the source URL), who took it, and the licence. See [[RetroTechCollection:Copyrights]].
* Add a category that fits, such as the platform category.
* In articles, use a thumbnail with a caption: <code><nowiki>[[File:Name.jpg|thumb|360px|Caption]]</nowiki></code> for the photo at the top of a guide, and <code><nowiki>[[File:Name.jpg|center|thumb|600px|Caption]]</nowiki></code> for a full board photo.

== Common mistakes ==
* Blurry photos: use a stand and good lighting.
* Flash glare on the solder mask: use diffused lighting.
* A cluttered background: use a mat or plain surface.
* Too far away: fill the frame with the subject.
* No scale: include a ruler or coin.
* Only one side of the board: always photograph both.

== See also ==
* [[Help:Contents|Help contents]]
* [[Help:Uploading service manuals]]
* [[Help:Writing a repair guide]]

[[Category:Help]]