Help:Photographing hardware
| Photographing hardware |
|---|
| How to take useful photos for RTC Wiki articles |
Repair guides, board documentation and component identification all depend on clear photographs. This page covers how to photograph vintage computer and console hardware for the wiki.
Equipment
[edit source]A modern smartphone camera is enough for most documentation. These help:
| Equipment | Why it helps |
|---|---|
| Macro lens, or a phone macro attachment | Close-ups of components, solder joints and IC markings |
| Tripod or phone stand | Stops camera shake, especially close up |
| Diffused lighting, such as a desk lamp with a white shade | Avoids harsh shadows and hot spots on shiny PCBs |
| Anti-static mat | A plain, consistent background, and ESD protection |
| Compressed air | Removes dust before you photograph |
Board photography
[edit source]Whole boards
[edit source]- Clean the board first with compressed air and IPA to remove dust and flux residue.
- For documentation photos, shoot from directly above, square to the board.
- Fill the frame with the board.
- Light it evenly from both sides so tall components do not cast shadows.
- Include a ruler or coin for scale on unfamiliar boards.
- Photograph both sides of every PCB.
Component close-ups
[edit source]- Focus on the IC markings. They are the most useful way to identify a part.
- Use macro mode to capture part numbers, date codes and manufacturer logos.
- On capacitors, show any bulging, leaking or corrosion, and the polarity marking.
- On solder joints, get close enough to show cracked, cold or dry joints.
Board revision
[edit source]- Photograph the board revision or part number printed on the silkscreen.
- Capture the date codes on the board and on the major ICs.
- Include any serial number stickers.
Photos for repair guides
[edit source]Before and after
[edit source]- Take a before photo showing the fault: bulging capacitors, corrosion, broken traces.
- Take an after photo of the finished repair.
- Use the same angle and lighting for both.
Step by step
[edit source]- Photograph each major step of the procedure.
- Mark the relevant area with an arrow or circle in any image editor.
- Where you are showing a technique, include the tool in the frame (for example, the soldering iron on the joint).
Camera settings
[edit source]| Setting | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Resolution | At least 2000×1500 pixels, so the photo can be cropped |
| Format | JPEG for photographs; PNG for screenshots and diagrams |
| White balance | Match your lighting; auto usually works |
| Flash | Off. Flash causes glare on PCBs; use external lighting instead |
| ISO | As low as possible (100–400) to reduce noise |
Uploading to the wiki
[edit source]- Upload at Special:Upload. Keep each file under about 3 MB; resize large photos before uploading.
- Give the file a descriptive name that says what it shows, including the board revision where there is one, for example
GameCube DOL-CPU-30 logic board top.jpg. - On the file page, say what the photo shows, where it came from (your own photo, or the source URL), who took it, and the licence. See RetroTechCollection:Copyrights.
- Add a category that fits, such as the platform category.
- In articles, use a thumbnail with a caption:
[[File:Name.jpg|thumb|360px|Caption]]for the photo at the top of a guide, and[[File:Name.jpg|center|thumb|600px|Caption]]for a full board photo.
Common mistakes
[edit source]- Blurry photos: use a stand and good lighting.
- Flash glare on the solder mask: use diffused lighting.
- A cluttered background: use a mat or plain surface.
- Too far away: fill the frame with the subject.
- No scale: include a ruler or coin.
- Only one side of the board: always photograph both.