Help:Photographing hardware
| 📷 Photographing Hardware |
|---|
| How to Take Great Photos for RTC Wiki Articles |
Good photographs are essential for repair guides, board documentation, and component identification. This guide covers best practices for photographing vintage computer and console hardware.
Equipment
[edit source]You don't need professional equipment — a modern smartphone camera is sufficient for most documentation. However, the following will improve your results:
| Equipment | Why It Helps |
|---|---|
| Macro lens (or phone macro attachment) | Close-up shots of components, solder joints, and IC markings |
| Tripod or phone stand | Eliminates camera shake for sharp images, especially at high zoom |
| Diffused lighting (desk lamp with white shade) | Eliminates harsh shadows and hot spots on reflective PCBs |
| Anti-static mat (coloured background) | Clean background, ESD protection, consistent appearance |
| Compressed air | Clean dust before photographing |
Board Photography
[edit source]Full Board Shots
[edit source]- Clean the board first — use compressed air and IPA to remove dust and flux residue
- Shoot from directly above (perpendicular to the board) for documentation photos
- Fill the frame — the board should occupy most of the image
- Use even lighting from both sides to avoid shadows under tall components
- Include a ruler or coin for scale reference when photographing unfamiliar boards
- Shoot BOTH sides — top and bottom of every PCB
Component Close-ups
[edit source]- Focus on the IC markings — these are the most useful identification feature
- Use macro mode to capture part numbers, date codes, and manufacturer logos
- Capacitor photos: capture any bulging, leaking, or corrosion. Show the polarity markings
- Solder joint photos: get close enough to see cracked, cold, or dry joints
Board Revision Identification
[edit source]- Always photograph the board revision number printed on the PCB silkscreen
- Capture date codes stamped on the board or major ICs
- Include serial number stickers where present
Photographing for Repair Guides
[edit source]Before/After Shots
[edit source]- Take a before photo showing the fault (e.g., bulging caps, corrosion, broken traces)
- Take an after photo showing the completed repair
- Use the same angle and lighting for both shots
Step-by-Step Documentation
[edit source]- Photograph each major step of a repair procedure
- Annotate photos with arrows or circles highlighting the relevant area (use any image editor)
- Include tool in frame when demonstrating a technique (e.g., soldering iron on a joint)
Photo Settings
[edit source]| Setting | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Resolution | At least 2000×1500 pixels (higher is better for cropping) |
| Format | JPEG is fine for most uses; PNG for screenshots or diagrams |
| White balance | Set to match your lighting (auto usually works) |
| Flash | OFF — use external lighting instead. Flash creates harsh reflections on PCBs |
| ISO | Keep as low as possible (100-400) to reduce noise |
Uploading to the Wiki
[edit source]- Use Special:Upload to upload your photos
- Naming convention:
Console_Name_Board_Revision_Description.jpg- Example:
GameCube_DOL-CPU-30_Logic_Board_Top.jpg
- Example:
- Add a descriptive summary when uploading
- Categorise your images (e.g.,
[[Category:Nintendo]]) - Use
[[File:Name.jpg|thumb|center|250px|Caption]]to embed in articles
Common Mistakes
[edit source]- ❌ Blurry photos — use a tripod/stand and good lighting
- ❌ Flash reflections on PCB solder mask — use diffused external light
- ❌ Cluttered background — use a clean mat or plain surface
- ❌ Too far away — fill the frame with the subject
- ❌ Missing scale reference — include something for size comparison
- ❌ Only photographing one side — always shoot both sides of a PCB