Super Famicom Capacitor Replacement Guide

Replacing the ageing electrolytic capacitors in your Super Famicom is essential for ensuring stable operation, clean video and audio output, and long-term reliability. Decades-old capacitors are prone to leakage, increased ESR, and failure, which can cause power instability, distorted sound, or even prevent the console from powering on. Proactive recapping is a vital part of preventative maintenance for any Super Famicom still in use.

Visual Inspection & Failure Signs

Before beginning, carefully inspect all electrolytic capacitors on both the mainboard and the AV daughterboard (if present):

• Bulging or domed tops – Indicates internal gas build-up and imminent failure.
• Leaking electrolyte – Brown, yellow, or white residue at the base or on the PCB is a sign of leakage.
• Corrosion or PCB staining – Green or darkened areas around capacitor pads or traces.
• Audio/video issues – Buzzing, distortion, or “hissing” audio; unstable or noisy video output.
• Power instability – Random resets, failure to power on, or intermittent operation.

If any capacitor shows signs of failure, it is strongly recommended to replace all electrolytic capacitors on the board, as others are likely to be near end-of-life.

Super Famicom Capacitor Lists

The Super Famicom (SHVC-CPU-01 and later revisions) uses a mix of through-hole and SMD aluminium electrolytic capacitors. Always cross-check your board’s silkscreen and markings, as values may vary slightly between revisions.

Mainboard Electrolytic Capacitors

Super Famicom Mainboard Electrolytic Capacitors

Ref. Designator	Capacitance	Voltage	Type	Typical Function
C59	1000 µF	16 V	Through-hole	Main 5 V input filter
C58	470 µF	16 V	Through-hole	5 V rail smoothing
C60	220 µF	10 V	Through-hole	Audio amp supply
C61	10 µF	16 V	SMD	Audio path (DC-block)
C62	10 µF	16 V	SMD	Audio path (DC-block)
C63	10 µF	16 V	SMD	Video encoder supply
C64	10 µF	16 V	SMD	Video encoder supply
C65	10 µF	16 V	SMD	Video output coupling
C66	10 µF	16 V	SMD	Video output coupling
C67	10 µF	16 V	SMD	Misc. decoupling
C68	10 µF	16 V	SMD	Misc. decoupling
C69	10 µF	16 V	SMD	Misc. decoupling
C70	10 µF	16 V	SMD	Misc. decoupling
C71	10 µF	16 V	SMD	Misc. decoupling
C72	10 µF	16 V	SMD	Misc. decoupling
C73	10 µF	16 V	SMD	Misc. decoupling
C74	10 µF	16 V	SMD	Misc. decoupling
C75	10 µF	16 V	SMD	Misc. decoupling
C76	10 µF	16 V	SMD	Misc. decoupling

Note: Some later revisions (e.g., SHVC-CPU-02, SHVC-CPU-03) may have minor differences in capacitor count or location. Always verify against your actual board.

AV/Audio Board (if present)

Some Super Famicom models include a small AV or audio daughterboard, typically with additional capacitors for audio filtering.

Super Famicom AV/Audio Board Capacitors

Ref. Designator	Capacitance	Voltage	Type	Function
C1	47 µF	16 V	SMD	Audio output coupling
C2	10 µF	16 V	SMD	Audio filter
C3	10 µF	16 V	SMD	Audio filter

If your model does not have a separate AV board, these capacitors may be located on the mainboard.

Capacitor Replacement Procedure

1. Disassemble the console: Remove the screws from the case bottom, then carefully lift off the top shell. Disconnect the controller ports and remove the shielding.
2. Remove the mainboard: Unscrew the board from the lower shell. Take care with the cartridge slot and any attached daughterboards.
3. Label cables and connectors to avoid confusion during reassembly.
4. Desolder old capacitors: For through-hole types, use a soldering iron and pump or braid. For SMD capacitors, gently heat one side at a time and lift off with tweezers. Clean any leaked electrolyte with isopropyl alcohol and a brush.
5. Install new capacitors: Observe correct polarity (longer lead or marked side is positive for through-hole; SMD usually has a stripe for negative). Match lead spacing and orientation.
6. Solder carefully: Ensure solid joints and avoid solder bridges.
7. Inspect and clean up: Check for any solder splashes or residue. Clean the board with alcohol.
8. Reassemble the console and double-check all connections before powering on.

Recommended Tools & Parts

• Temperature-controlled soldering iron (fine tip, 2 mm chisel for through-hole, conical for SMD)
• Desoldering pump and braid
• Tweezers (for SMD work)
• Isopropyl alcohol (99%) and antistatic brush
• Multimeter (for continuity and voltage checks)
• High-quality 105 °C, low-ESR electrolytic capacitors (brands such as Nichicon, Panasonic, Rubycon)
• Lead-free or leaded 0.5 mm solder
• Kapton tape (to insulate capacitors near shielding if needed)
• Protective eyewear

Voltage & Function Check After Recap

After reassembly, verify the following:

• +5 V rail at the main input filter capacitor (C59): should read 4.90 – 5.10 V DC.
• Audio output should be free of hum, buzz, or distortion.
• Video output should be stable, with no rolling, flickering, or colour artefacts.
• If you have an oscilloscope, check for ripple on the 5 V rail: should be less than 50 mV p-p.

Additional Tips

• Replace all electrolytic capacitors at once; partial recapping is not recommended.
• Double-check polarity before soldering each capacitor.
• Clean any leaked electrolyte thoroughly, as it is corrosive and can damage traces.
• If the console has not been powered up for years, use a current-limited bench supply for the first power-on.
• SMD capacitors can be replaced with modern SMD or carefully adapted radial types if preferred.
• Dispose of old capacitors at an approved electronics recycling centre.

Related Pages

• Super Famicom Troubleshooting Guide
• Super Famicom General Maintenance