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Grandstand Munchman Capacitor Replacement Guide

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TOMY LSI PACMAN handheld electronic game
Tomy's Puck Man, the same game as the Grandstand Munchman (うぃき野郎, retouched by Pittigrilli; CC BY-SA 4.0).

The electrolytic capacitors on the main board of the Grandstand Munchman (Tomy Pac Man, Puckman, Puck Man). No parts list or schematic for this game has been published, and the board carries no capacitor reference numbers. The values below were read from owners' photographs of the TN-08 2E108E01 board, looked at at full size; the photograph is named for each one. Where a marking is turned away from the camera or too blurred to read, the table says so.[1][2]

There is no published report of a Munchman fault caused by a capacitor. Replace these parts when one is visibly leaking or bulging, when a repair of the display supply points at one, or as part of a restoration, not as a cure for every fault. See Capacitor Failure Symptoms.

Where the capacitors are

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All five electrolytics are on the main board, in and around the display supply at the end of the board away from the microcontroller: the blue transformer, the TO-126 power transistor, the C2785 transistor, the 1SS53 and W06C diodes and the RD12EB3 zener.[2][1] Positions below are described with the board component side up and the display tube along the top edge, as in analo9's photograph 23.

Munchman (TN-08 2E108E01) electrolytic capacitors
Position Value Voltage Read from Notes
Top right, lying flat beside the W06C diode 2.2 µF 50 V analo9, photograph 23[2] Marking fully legible
Centre right, beside the C2785 transistor 3.3 µF 50 V Ingmar's Retroblog, main board photograph IMG_20200524_171747337[1] Lying flat on Ingmar's board, upright on analo9's; grey NTK capacitor
Top right corner, upper of the two upright capacitors beside the transformer Appears to read 3.3 µF 50 V analo9, photograph 23[2] Marking partly turned away; confirm on the part before ordering
Top right corner, lower of the two upright capacitors beside the transformer Not legible Not legible analo9, photograph 23[2] Read the part itself
Bottom right, upright, beside the RD12EB3 zener Not legible 50 V (board silkscreen) analo9, photograph 23[2] Only the silkscreen "50V" is readable

The other capacitors on the board are ceramic or film types: an SL121J, a disc marked 471J and an FZ223Z.[2] These rarely fail and are not usually changed.

Procedure

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  1. Take the cells out, open the case and lift out the main board with the display, as described on Grandstand Munchman General Maintenance.
  2. Before removing anything, photograph the board and note the polarity of each electrolytic.
  3. Read the value and voltage on each capacitor you remove. Where this table says "not legible", the part in your hand is the authority.
  4. Fit new radial electrolytics of the same capacitance and at least the same voltage, rated 105 °C. The two capacitors beside the transformer sit against it, so keep the replacements' diameter no larger than the originals.
  5. Do not bend leads across the transformer or the power transistor; keep the lying capacitors lying flat as Tomy fitted them.
  6. Clean flux off with isopropyl alcohol, refit the board and test on cells and on the adaptor.

After the work

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  • The game should start with its fanfare and show P-01 at switch-on.[3]
  • Measure about 6 V at the battery terminals on fresh cells.[4]
  • If the display is still dark, the fault lies elsewhere in the display supply; see Grandstand Munchman Troubleshooting Guide.
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References

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  1. ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 Ingmar's Retroblog, "„Puckman" (oder „PackMan")?", 26 May 2020 (in German; retrieved 2026-10-18). Restoration of a Tomy Puckman (model TKY-7612) with photographs: four C cells in series, 6 V, plus a socket for a plug-in adaptor; four white direction keys and two slide switches (power and difficulty); NEC μPD553C, whose outputs drive the VFD segments directly at about 30-38 V while the chip itself runs from up to 10 V DC, clocked between 150 and 440 kHz; a small discrete DC-DC converter (a transformer with a driver transistor) supplies the display; sound from a piezo sounder; the keys are on a separate board whose contact areas are closed by a rubber membrane with a conductive coating. The game was taken fully apart and every part cleaned; the membrane's contact points were re-coated with a soft graphite pencil. Most work was in the battery box, where a previous owner had left the cells to leak; it was cleaned with gall soap, a brush and abrasive paper. The boards were cleaned with alcohol. Photographs at full size (4000 × 3000 originals) show the main board marked TN-08 TOMY 2E108E01 JAPAN, the D553C 160, a blue transformer and a TO-126 power transistor at the board edge, a lying 3.3 µF 50 V electrolytic, the control board marked 2E108E02 with a W06A diode beside the AC and ground pads, the rubber key pad, and the slide-switch carrier with its contacts.
  2. ↑ 2.0 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 2.6 analo9 (아날로그 탐구생활), "1981 토미 LSI 휴대용 게임기(팩맨 Pac-Man)", Naver blog, 25 May 2022 (in Korean; retrieved 2026-10-18). Repair of a boxed Tomy Puck Man that would not switch on even from an adaptor: control switches removed and contacts cleaned; supply DC 6 V; piezo buzzer; plastics washed; NEC D553C 4-bit 42-pin microcontroller and NEC VFD; board repaired and tested, display brightness checked; "a pico fuse connected for circuit protection" in the supply lead. Photograph 23 (1280 px) shows the component side legibly: TN-08 TOMY JAPAN 2E108E01; resistor networks EXBR89154M and EXBR86473M; C2785 transistor; 1SS53 and W06C diodes; RD12EB3 zener; SL121J and FZ223Z capacitors; resonator position CSB400P; a 2.2 µF 50 V electrolytic beside the W06C; a grey NTK electrolytic beside the C2785; D553C 160 lot E2464D-218. Photograph 21 shows the ribbon cable from the control board to the main board.
  3. ↑ Tomy Corporation, Tomytronic Pac Man instruction sheet, copyright 1981, Carson, California, printed in Japan; the US edition of the leaflet for the game Grandstand sold as Munchman. Hosted here as File:Tomy Pac Man Instructions.pdf. Page 1: controls drawing (game selector switch AMA/PRO, ON-OFF power switch, four PAC MAN control buttons); "Insert batteries": turn the power switch off, turn the game over and push the battery cover in the direction of the arrow to slide it open; four C cells, long-life or alkaline recommended; recommended AC adapters Archer cat. no. 270-1551 A and Recoton AD-10UL; adapter requirements 7.5 V DC 200 mA, 2.1 mm ID coaxial plug, tip (centre) negative; "Taking care of your game": no excessive heat or cold (car glove compartment, heater vent), avoid wet or dirt, "Don't take it apart", don't shake or drop, turn off and remove the batteries for storage, no dead batteries left in; "If the batteries become weak the display screen will become dark and show incorrect action". Page 2: unplug the adapter when not in use and use no other adapter; switching on plays a fanfare and shows P-01 with the remaining Pac-Men and the number of monsters; the game begins when the monsters flash; Pac-Man cannot eat bait behind it; two monsters in segments 1-3 on AMA, three from segment 4, three throughout on PRO; when all Pac-Men are lost "the game screen will flicker until the power switch is turned off".
  4. ↑ windytan (Oona Räisänen), "Tomy Electronic PUCKMAN", May 2013 (retrieved 2026-10-18). A Tomy Puckman bought at a flea market: D-pad controls, on/off and AMA/PRO switches; VFD with every sprite position pre-printed; main chip marked D553C-160 (photograph shows "NEC JAPAN 8228EK D553C 160" and the board silkscreen PCJTN-08); four C cells, 6 V, or an AC adapter; run from a 6 V DC adapter "hooked up to the battery terminals"; the sound is "very loud".


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