Atari SC1224 General Maintenance

Care, opening and adjustment of the Atari SC1224 colour monitor. The SC1224 was built in three versions by JVC, Goldstar and Samsung under the one model number.[1] Atari's service manuals survive for two of them: the Goldstar set on the CA-3 chassis and the JVC set that Atari calls Version 2.[2][3] The procedures below are from those manuals; check which version you have before using a designator (see Atari SC1224 Capacitor Replacement Guide#Which version is it?).
Safety
[edit | edit source]- The anode supply is 22.0 kV on the Version 2 and 23.0 kV nominal on the CA-3. Discharge the CRT before touching anything near the flyback or the anode cap: see CRT Discharge Procedure. The Version 2 manual says to discharge it with a clip lead from the ground frame through a 10 kΩ 2 W resistor to the anode button, and never to check the high voltage by drawing an arc.[4][5]
- Goldstar's manual requires an isolation transformer between the monitor and the mains before the chassis is serviced.[5] On the Version 2 the 125 V B1 supply is rectified straight from the mains by D1901 to D1904, so the main board is not isolated from the mains.[6]
- Replace any part shaded in the schematic or marked as a safety part in the parts list with the part the manual specifies. Both manuals give this rule for the high-voltage, X-ray protection and mains parts.[5][4]
- The CRT has integral implosion protection. Avoid knocking or scratching it, and fit only the same type of tube.[5]
Fuses
[edit | edit source]| Version | Ref | Rating |
|---|---|---|
| CA-3 (Goldstar) | F901 | 3.15 A 250 V[7][8] |
| Version 2 (JVC) | F1901 | 4 A 125 V, mains[6][9] |
| Version 2 (JVC) | F1902 | 1 A 125 V, after the mains bridge[6][9] |
A blown fuse has a cause. Check the bridge, the reservoir capacitor and the regulator or switching IC before fitting a new one (see Atari SC1224 Troubleshooting Guide).[10]
Opening the Version 2
[edit | edit source]- Unplug the power cord and remove the five screws marked A to take off the rear cabinet.[11]
- Discharge the CRT.
- To remove the main board, take out the two screws marked B, the two marked C and the two marked D, remove the bracket if necessary, and disconnect the anode lead and the other wires. Withdraw the board.[11]
- To remove the bottom cover, take out its five screws (F) after removing the main board.[11]
- When the set is powered for checks with the board out, keep the CRT earth wire connected between the CRT socket board and the main board. When the CRT socket board is disconnected, coat the CRT socket with silicone.[11]
Atari's CA-3 manual does not give a removal procedure for the Goldstar set.
Degaussing
[edit | edit source]The CA-3 has an automatic degaussing coil round the tube, which runs for about one second at switch-on. After the monitor has been moved or turned to face another way, leave it switched off for at least ten minutes so the automatic degausser works fully at the next switch-on. If the chassis or cabinet has become magnetised, use an external degaussing coil: move it slowly round the faceplate, sides and front, then withdraw it slowly to about 2 metres before switching it off.[12] The Version 2 also has a degaussing coil (L01) switched by the posistor TH1901.[6]
Adjustments: CA-3 (Goldstar)
[edit | edit source]Atari's CA-3 manual lists these adjustments. The rear-panel controls are the user's; the others are on the main board and need the back off.[12][13]
| Adjustment | Control | Setting |
|---|---|---|
| Vertical hold | R603 (rear) | A single still picture |
| Vertical size | R616 (rear) | Picture 150 mm high on the 12-inch tube |
| Vertical linearity | R635 (rear) | Best on a cross-hatch, within ±7 %; recheck size afterwards |
| Vertical centre | R626 | Picture centred on the screen |
| Horizontal hold | R716 (rear) | A stable picture |
| Horizontal position | R710 (rear) | Picture centred on the screen |
| Horizontal width | Coil L702, with a hexagonal tool | Picture 210 mm wide |
| Side pincushion | R621 | Distortion at minimum, within 1.5 % |
| Focus | Focus control on the flyback | Sharp scan lines at the 1/4 and 3/4 points of the screen |
| Sub-brightness | R742 | With a white input, contrast at maximum and brightness at minimum, turn R742 until the picture just cuts off |
| Drive (white balance) | R323 (red), R303 (green), R343 (blue) | With brightness and contrast at maximum, 45 V p-p video at R510 and R511 for red and green; blue set to match green |
| Cut-off (white balance) | R317 (red), R337 (green), R357 (blue) | Set with a colour analyser on a reverse pattern; the manual's target is x 0.279 to 0.283, y 0.309 to 0.313 |
| Level | R369 (red); R372 (blue level, shown on the chassis figure) | R369 matches the red output to green at minimum contrast; recheck red drive at maximum contrast afterwards |
| X-ray protection (hold-down) | R725 | Factory set: 10.25 V DC at the cathode of D704, then fixed with epoxy |
The CA-3 has no high-voltage adjustment. The 115 V supply sets the high voltage, which the manual says must measure below 24.0 kV at zero beam current and must not exceed 24.5 kV at either extreme of the brightness control.[12] Let the monitor run for at least fifteen minutes before touching convergence.[12]
Adjustments: Version 2 (JVC)
[edit | edit source]Warm the monitor and the instruments up for at least 30 minutes. Atari's equipment list is an RGB signal generator with analogue output at 1.0 V, an oscilloscope, a voltmeter, a screwdriver and a hexagon core wrench.[14]
| Order | Adjustment | Control | Setting |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | HB voltage | HB ADJ R1570 | 120 V on the HB line |
| 2 | Horizontal hold | H HOLD R1506 with H FREQ switch SW1501 | Set H POSITION R1516 to mid-travel, switch SW1501 out, turn R1506 until the picture almost holds, return SW1501 to centre |
| 3 | Horizontal width | Coil L1522 | Picture 216 mm wide |
| 4 | Vertical hold | V HOLD R1432 | Picture vertically stable |
| 5 | Vertical height, linearity, position | R1408, R1406, R1429 | 160 mm high, equal top and bottom spacing on a cross-hatch, centred |
| 6 | Black level | Y BIAS R1006 | With black input and BRIGHT and SUB BRIGHT at mid-travel, 6.0 V DC at TP-G2 |
| 7 | Bright pulse | SUB BRIGHT R1015 | With black input and BRIGHT R1019 at centre, no pulse at TP-G2 |
| 8 | Cut-off | R1025, R1028, R1031 and the SCREEN control | 105 V at TP-47R, G and B; then with SERVICE switch SW1401 at S, set SCREEN until a faint line shows and bring the other two colours up to match with their cut-off controls; return SW1401 to N |
| 9 | Drive | B DRIVE R1304, then R1104 and R1204 | With CONTRAST R1013 at maximum and white input, 30 V p-p black-to-white at TP-47B; then red and green drive for a white raster |
| 10 | Focus | FOCUS control | Centre and edges equally sharp with the contrast set so the characters just saturate |
All settings are from Atari's service adjustments.[14] Purity and convergence are needed only after a tube or yoke change or when colour shading appears. Atari's procedure demagnetises the tube, sets purity with the purity magnets and the yoke position, sets static convergence with the 4-pole and 6-pole magnets on a cross-hatch, and corrects the corners with the yoke and rubber wedges.[15]
Safety checks after a repair
[edit | edit source]Atari's Version 2 manual requires a leakage check after any repair. Plug the monitor straight into the mains without an isolation transformer, and measure from each exposed metal part to a good earth through a 1500 Ω 10 W resistor with a 0.15 µF capacitor across it. The AC voltage across the resistor must not exceed 0.35 V, which corresponds to 0.5 mA; repeat with the plug reversed. The manual also asks for the B1 setting to be checked after any chassis repair.[4]
Capacitors
[edit | edit source]Electrolytic capacitors on both versions are now around forty years old. Owners report leaking power-board capacitors on Goldstar sets.[16] Full lists for both versions are on Atari SC1224 Capacitor Replacement Guide.
Related pages
[edit | edit source]- Atari SC1224
- Atari SC1224 Troubleshooting Guide
- Atari SC1224 Capacitor Replacement Guide
- Atari SC1224 Documentation
- CRT Discharge Procedure
- Recommended Tools
References
[edit | edit source]- ↑ "Atari SC1224 RGB Color Monitor", atari-computermuseum.de, https://www.atari-computermuseum.de/st_peri.htm#sc1224. Secondary source for the three manufacturers.
- ↑ Atari, SC1224 RGB Color Monitor Service Manual, chassis CA-3, cover (PDF p. 1). File:Atari SC1224 Service Manual (CA-3 chassis).pdf.
- ↑ Atari Corporation, SC1224 Version 2 Field Service Manual, C070433, February 1986, cover. File:Atari SC1224 Version 2 Field Service Manual C070433.pdf.
- ↑ 4.0 4.1 4.2 SC1224 Version 2 Field Service Manual, Safety Precaution, p. 3.
- ↑ 5.0 5.1 5.2 5.3 SC1224 Service Manual (CA-3), Safety Precautions (PDF p. 6).
- ↑ 6.0 6.1 6.2 6.3 SC1224 Version 2 Field Service Manual, Power Circuit, p. 29.
- ↑ SC1224 Service Manual (CA-3), Replacement Parts List, power board, printed p. 32 (PDF p. 22).
- ↑ Atari, CA-3 Chassis Schematic Diagram, P/N 484-257A. File:Atari SC1224 CA-3 Chassis Schematic and Troubleshooting Charts.pdf, PDF p. 1.
- ↑ 9.0 9.1 SC1224 Version 2 Field Service Manual, Replacement Parts List, p. 13.
- ↑ SC1224 Service Manual (CA-3), Trouble Shooting Chart B, No Power, printed p. 12 (PDF p. 13).
- ↑ 11.0 11.1 11.2 11.3 SC1224 Version 2 Field Service Manual, How to Remove for Service, p. 5.
- ↑ 12.0 12.1 12.2 12.3 SC1224 Service Manual (CA-3), Adjustment and Maintenance and Chassis Important Parts, printed pp. 6 and 21 (PDF pp. 8 and 17).
- ↑ SC1224 Service Manual (CA-3), Control Operation, printed p. 5 (PDF p. 7).
- ↑ 14.0 14.1 SC1224 Version 2 Field Service Manual, Alignment Locations and Service Adjustments, pp. 6-7.
- ↑ SC1224 Version 2 Field Service Manual, Color-Adjusting Modes for CRT Display, pp. 8-10.
- ↑ "Dead SC1224", Atari-Forum, posts by MaLICiouS, 26 March 2010. https://www.atari-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=18975. Community report.